LEMON CABBAGE

Braising shredded cabbage in butter without any additional liquid seems to preserve its sweet cabbage flavor. Using high enough heat to brown the cabbage slightly adds an appealing nutty, brown-butter taste. Toss in some lemon zest, scallion, and parsley and you have an aromatic dish that flatters roast chicken, duck, or turkey; pork or ham in almost any guise; or a veal stew.

Serves 4

1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 1/2 pounds shredded green cabbage

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/3 cup finely minced scallions

1/2 teaspoon gated lemon zest, or more to taste

2 tablespoons minced parsley

Melt the butter in a large skillet over moderately high heat. Add the cabbage and season it with salt and pepper. Toss to coat the cabbage with butter. Cover and cook over moderately high heat, uncovering to stir once or twice, until the cabbage is lightly wilted and beginning to brown lightly in places, about 10 minutes. Watch carefully so the cabbage doesn’t burn. Do not add any liquid. When the cabbage is just tender, remove the pan from the heat and immediately stir in the green onion and ½ teaspoon of grated lemon zest. Toss well. Taste and add more salt, pepper, or lemon zest if necessary. Stir in the parsley just before serving, saving a little to sprinkle on top.